Monday, 14 May 2012

West Coast Overview

The west coast of the South Island, has to be one of my favourite spots in New Zealand. There is an indescribable feeling about this place that just makes you happy inside. It is very remote and a lot of people don't really get to really enjoy it just focusing on the main "tourist" sites.

One of the main tourist spots (which are very worthwhile) are the Glaciers. Franz Josef is the larger glacier and is about a 1-1.5 hour return walk to the terminal face of it from the carpark. It is very interesting going here different years as you get to see how the glacier changes. Although sadly its not for the best. Both of these are seriously shrinking and retreting up the valley.
Franz Josef Glacier (or what is left)
Fox Glacier was my favorite, but when we last visited seeing the massive change in shape and appearance due to retreating was heartbreaking. However I would still recommend the glacier hikes here. It may be smaller but if you do the glacier hikes you will get more "ice time", and it is definitely an interesting trek. It is also much closer to the carpark which allows people easier access to it.

The towns associated with the glaciers, are fairly decent places to stay in the area, although Fox tends to be a bit cheaper. If you are short on the cash. MacDonalds campsite about 10 mins drive north of Franz Josef is an excellent campsite on the foreshore of Lake Mapourika, which makes for excellent "showering" facilities. Also home to some lovely black swans.

Beach section of 3 mile lagoon trek
The next most visited place on the coast is probably the Monteith Brewery in Greymouth or the Pancake Rocks near Punakaiki. Both are recommended. The tasting after the tours is great, and the walks around the rocks are also fun times.

Kayaking up Okarito River
But the best places on the coast are the ones no one really hears about. Okarito is one such hidden wonder. Here you can go kayaking, fishing, and stay at a beautiful coastal town. Not to mention it is one of the last places (other spot is in Karamea) in the world to see the white herons (see the back of $2 coin for this bird). These birds are much bigger than expected even if you don't get too close. Also of interest here is the Three Mile Lagoon trek. If you time it right you can go along the old road on the way to the lagoon, and return via the beach on the way back (recommend this way around for less up hill). If you had more time and a tent you could also continue onto the Five Mile Lagoon. This area is steeped in Gold mining history, in fact, the trek, is along the old road! Also take the time to visit to the kiwi habitat.


Oparara Arch. 50m wide, 200m long.
Karamea National Park is north of Westport and you will need to make a special journey to get here but it is well worth it. There are some amazing and the largest arches made by rivers in NZ. And the peacefulness is quite worth it. In addition it seems to be the capital for pukekos and wekas (native birds)! As this place is out of the way the people that live here are very colourful.

Hokitika Gorge is a decent drive inland from Hokitika town, but the variation in the gorge waters are quite interesting with some great rock to go with it. Bring your insect repellent though.

Mount Aspiring National Park is tricky, as technically it is part of the West Coast but the only way to access it easily is from Wanaka. This park is amazing and has some of the best day and longer walks in the country. The variation in colour of the landscape is fantastic. Rob Roy Glacier is of particular mention. Just 4 hours of awesome.
Mt Aspiring National Park, part of Rob Roy Glacier trek.


The best way to experience the wild west is slowly. There are so many little nocks and crannys to explore, short and long walks, things to taste and try, experiences to go on (some free), and places to stay (e.g. gillespies beach, copeland valley, lake paringa, haast etc...). Don't rush it.

Saturday, 21 April 2012

Gold Coast 2.0

For a number of reasons we decided on a spontaneous trip (booked 8 days in advance) to the Gold Coast. We stayed at a hotel in Varsity Lakes. After my arrival (late Fri night) went to the nearest one for a walk (Martin was already there for work), and got to enjoy seeing some toads, and numerous fish jumping out of the water.

Our first day together, we headed off South into NSW, to see places we hadn't the previous time. Sadly the weather turned quite icky so we didn't get as far south as we wanted (aim was to get to Maclean to explore the Scottish tributes of this town).I was very happy to have seen "real" wild kangaroos jumping around in the fields near Broadwater. Definite highlight of the day. Went to see the Tea Tree stained lake (Lake Ainsworth) near Ballina. And then onto the final short stop of the day, driving up Mt Warning. Hadn't realised this earlier but the whole area we had been in is actually a massive old volcanic crater, with Mt Warning, being the upthrust in the middle of this massive rim! Had a very short bush walk here and then back up to the hotel to get ready for dinner with Martins Aussie boss in Surfers Paradise.

The next day was quite relaxing. Went back to Nobby's Beach (where we stayed the previous time) to enjoy the sun, sand, and very very warm water! Such a weird feeling being in such warm water without being on a tropical island or in the Mediterranean. Spent a good half a day just swimming and sunning, awesome times. After that headed up to Mt Tamborine to have a late lunch at the polish place! The views from here were amazing, as its on the far side of the northern part of the crater rim. Could see for miles. Also got to play with a lot of parakeets which would be flying around your head begging for food. The sound at times was deafening. Had a quick wine tasting (or Martin did) at Witches Falls, and did a short walk to Cedar Creek Falls.

The final day in Aus wasn't together. Martin had work, so I went off with 3 fellow female travellers to go hiking in Springbrook National Park before my flight. Did the twin falls circuit, which took us along the cliff top, down, through a variety of different tree types (the smell of eukalytus was overpowering at times), through some short caves, under waterfalls, and back up. Saw an Australian blue lobster under the last falls, and at the very end of the track something interesting slithered across our track. I was at the head of the group wondering why the birds were making such paniced noises. And 2m before stepping on it, noticed that there was a huge python calmly crossing the path. Would have been at least 7ft easy, maybe longer. I dont like snakes. After calming down and having lunch from the "best lookout" viewpoint which looks inwards onto the crater (you can see the other side of the crater from here), headed back to Surfers Paradise for a while, before getting my flight.